Tuesday, April 15, 2008

I got to go to Blackberry Farm


After a particularly long day at work, I decided to apply for a new job.  When I read about the Pastry Chef position at Blackberry Farm, I just had to apply.  So when I got home, I spiffed up my resume and mailed it out.  About three days later, I received a phone call from their staffing coordinator asking when I could take some time to talk to her.  After an initial interview, and a chat with Executive Chef Peter Glander, I found myself in the airport heading for Knoxville.
I had never been that far into the south before, much less been picked up by a hired car. I had never even flown with my knife kit.  My days leading up to the trip I was frantically taking notes on my recipes, practicing my chocolate tempering, and wondering just what was in season down there.  To my coworkers, I must have been acting a little crazier than usual.

When I arrived, it was marvelous.  The property was just as beautiful as the website had promised.  The staff was courteous and everyone called me "M'am".  My agenda was ambitious: a pre dessert, three plated desserts, petit fours, an
d a chocolate - all for a service of six people.My room was a sweet little cottage called "Ruffed Grouse".  

It was decorated so well and I had a great time perusing all the information in the guest book.

I got to have dinner on the property two nights, once in the main house, once in the Barn (the restaurant I was interviewing to work in).  The service staff were all kind and knowledgeable. 
I did notice a few things that made me recognize the place is not without flaws:

1. There was quite a bit of lint on the wine glasses on my table.
2. There was a hairline crack in my amuse plate
3. The butter cream on the top of the cake I was served for dessert was cold and therefore hard.
I was feeling pretty good.  If this was what this place was all about, I was about to know everyone's socks off.  It had been a while since I had been able to cook my own food, and I was chomping at the bit to get back to it.
The next two days were a whirlwind.  I can't say exactly what I did when, but I felt good about my food - despite the fact that I changed my mind about a million times.  

My final menu consisted of:

Pre dessert: "Sugar on Snow":  Maple syrup cooked and poured over a lemon scented vanilla bean granita.  
Reason: It was the start of sugaring season here in NH, and I thought it would be a cute tongue in cheek of a palate cleansing course.

Plated 1- Chocolate Caramel Pave with braised apricots and Jack Daniel's Caramel 
Reason:  This was a best selling dessert of mine when I was working at the inn.  It has good flavors and it is a nice dark wintery chocolate dessert.

Plated 2- Sheep's yogurt panna cotta with Blackberry Farm Honey, buttermilk cake, and roasted rhubarb
Reason: Peter had given me the yogurt to use, and I liked the tanginess so much I thought it should shine through.. The rhubarb they had was fresh and pink.  I like to roast it with vanilla bean, sugar, and butter. That's it.  The honey was light and had a nice mouth feel.  I thought it was a nice balance of textures

Plated 3 - Steamed apple, Marconas almond dacqoise, saigon cinnamon ice cream, and apple butter.  
Reason: Again, the apple butter was something Peter had given me to use.  I love marconas.  The steamed apple was a trick I learned in a class in Chicago a few years back.  I liked it, but I think it could have been better.

Petit Fours - Canneles, Mini Buttermilk pies, Milk Chocolate orange fudge
Reason:  I ran out of time.  Canneles are kind a signature of mine here in NH because no one really makes them.  

Chocolate - Chocolate Caramel Lemon Truffles
Reason:  They were rustic and my timing was tight.  I had the ganache left over from my pave, and I could easily add lemon to it to make the flavor brighter.

All in all, it was a good experience.  It was amazing food and amazing people.
I don't think I will be offered the job.  I sent out a thank you and emailed Peter to a limited response.  I know he will not make the final decision on the hire, but it is hard to put your heart out there and here nothing.  My only lament is that I would like to know how to improve my skills for the next place.  

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